Skip to content

Live in the Swiss AlpsAlpeanGlow

Edition 9 · 30 October 2026

Before the snow

A replanned run in St. Moritz Bad, Arosa Kulm's later date, an off-season apartment in Celerina and Val Fex after the hotel closes.

Lake St. Moritz in autumn, with golden larches on the wooded south shore; archive photograph by Theodor Esenwein, not current conditions

Editorial

Before the snow

AlpeanGlow

The quiet weeks are not empty. They are when a mountain season is prepared, argued over and dated.

Late October looks like an interval. Several of the hotels we follow are closed, lifts are idle, and the kitchens that stay open say so on their homepages, as though it were news. In a way it is.

I find this the most useful fortnight of the year for reading a place, because the work of the season is visible before the season covers it. St. Moritz reports that about 73 per cent of the snow it stored over the summer survived, enough to plan a first cross-country trail from 7 November. The same municipality has opened a consultation on widening the run from Oberalpina to St. Moritz Bad.

In Pontresina, the Engadiner Post reports that an appeal against the CHF 10mn Roseg sports-ground credit was withdrawn, and Südostschweiz that the cantonal court stopped the municipality from collecting almost CHF 140,000 from an owner converting a multi-family house. In Arosa, the Kulm's own site now gives its reopening as the winter season of 2029.

None of this is a reason to travel this weekend. It is a way of understanding what you are buying into, whether that is a fortnight or a front door. This issue's stays follow the same rule: open now, or with their terms already written down.

Read article

No. 01 · Just found

New & Unmissable

Recently verified stays, read against the changes shaping their destinations.

New & Unmissable

Arosa Kulm, now dated 2029

AlpeanGlow

The rebuilt hotel is marketing residences while its reopening date has moved later.

The Arosa Kulm Hotel & Alpin Spa closed after its last operating day on 30 March 2025. In November 2024, Tageskarte reported that the owner, Urs Wietlisbach, planned 87 hotel rooms, 76 managed suites and 27 second homes, with sales from mid-2025 and a reopening expected in December 2028. The hotel's own site now gives "winter season 2029" and describes a comprehensive renovation extended with new buildings. That later date, stated by the project itself, is the current element in this selection.

The site markets two forms of ownership. Kulm Private Residences are described as second homes. Kulm Residences are described as managed, with direct access to the hotel's services, which the site lists as sport, gym, spa, dining and nightlife. Holzer Kobler Architekturen is named for the architecture and Di Renzo Interior Studio for the interiors. No unit sizes, prices or completion dates are published there; enquiries go through a contact form.

For a buyer, the distinction between the two products matters more than the renderings. A managed residence draws much of its value from an operating hotel, and this one is not due to reopen until the 2029 winter season. A private second home is a different legal and practical proposition. Ask which category a unit belongs to, what the management obligations are, and what happens to services if the date moves again.

Arosa itself is not shut in the meantime. The Novemberhoch programme runs the Weisshorn cable car at weekends from 31 October, with the summit restaurant open.

Prices, unit sizes and completion dates unpublished; second-home or managed status by unit with Arosa Kulm.

Read article

No. 02 · Considered stays

Luxury Lodging

Hotels compared through architecture, spa, access and the trade-offs that matter.

Luxury Lodging

A penthouse at the foot of the run

AlpeanGlow

St. Moritz Bad's main ski descent is being replanned; The View offers scale and service nearby.

St. Moritz has opened a public consultation on the run from Oberalpina to St. Moritz Bad, open from 22 October to 23 November. The planning report calls it the busiest descent in the municipality, leading from Corviglia back to the Signal lift and its car parks. It follows a forest road that the report finds too narrow for today's safety and capacity, with low underpasses beneath Via Somplaz and Via Chavallera that are hard to cover with snow in spring. The plan widens the existing line and adds snowmaking. Works are scheduled for 2028 to 2030, and a municipal ballot is still to come.

The report ties the run to the Signal lift itself. Engadin St. Moritz Mountains intends to replace the 1972 cable car with an eight-seat gondola; a first approval failed at the Federal Supreme Court in May 2023, a revised application has been filed, and the report expects a federal decision in 2026. For an address in St. Moritz Bad, the way home from the slopes is a planning matter with a timetable, not a fixture.

Our selection is the Penthouse 3 Bedroom at The View, at Via Tegiatscha 17, which Laudinella AG opened in December 2025. The operator lists about 145 square metres on the sixth floor, three bathrooms, three balconies, a large roof terrace and an outdoor whirlpool, sleeping up to eight with three double beds and a sofa bed. A kitchen is available on request rather than as standard. Breakfast, the rooftop spa, entry to the Ovaverva pool about 200 metres away and station transfers are included, according to the operator.

The case for it is scale with service attached, not the label. The building's other categories include a 250-square-metre Master Penthouse for up to 16; for a family of six, the three-bedroom layout is the more proportionate choice. Laudinella's November spa package is bookable for its hotel rooms from 23 October to 13 December, which indicates the group is operating through the quiet weeks. Penthouse prices and date-specific availability are not published.

Price on application; kitchen on request; walking distance to the Signal base and availability with The View.

Read article

No. 03 · Stay and work

Workation Gems

Longer-stay candidates assessed for space, connectivity and the details still to confirm.

Workation Gems

Celerina, out of season

AlpeanGlow

Chesa Rosatsch keeps its restaurant open through November; the al Flüm apartment is the working option.

Hotel Chesa Rosatsch in Celerina/Schlarigna lists an off-season from 2 November to 3 December 2026, with doubles from CHF 180 a night including breakfast, and says its restaurant, Uondas, stays open at lunch and dinner during that period. In a month when many kitchens close, a stay with a restaurant downstairs removes the daily question of dinner.

Our selection is the apartment al Flüm: about 62 square metres with a separate bedroom, a living and dining room with a pull-out bed, its own kitchen, a shower room and a view of the Inn. Wi-Fi is free, and breakfast and afternoon coffee and cake are included, according to the hotel. The page lists it from CHF 490 without saying whether that is a nightly rate.

Treat it as a stay to test, not a proven office. No desk is described; the living and dining room is the likeliest place to work. Ask for a photograph of the actual table and chair, a connection check at the hour you take calls, and the off-season rate for a week or more. Within the same house, the a l'En apartment, about 44 square metres, suits one person, while Sper l'En, about 100 to 125 square metres with two bathrooms, gives two people who both work a room each.

For exercise between calls, St. Moritz plans its first cross-country trail from 7 November, laid with stored snow around Schanze and San Gian.

From CHF 490, basis unstated; off-season doubles from CHF 180 a night with breakfast until 3 December; desk and connection with the hotel.

Read article

No. 04 · Nature-led stays

Cabins in Nature

Nature-led stays where setting, access and exact accommodation type shape the choice.

Cabins in Nature

Val Fex, after the hotel closes

AlpeanGlow

A self-catering apartment in Crasta, reached without a car, for a valley at its quietest.

Val Fex is the side valley above Sils Maria. In late autumn its rhythm changes: Hotel Fex is listed as closed from 19 October to 18 December, so the valley's most familiar overnight address is unavailable this week and for most of the next seven.

Our selection is a self-catering alternative: Chesa Meuli Fex, a first-floor apartment in a shared house in the hamlet of Crasta, near the church. The listing describes three rooms (Swiss room counts include living space): two bedrooms, each with two single beds, one bathroom, a kitchen with oven and dishwasher, a table for six, two balconies, a washer-dryer and Wi-Fi, for up to four adults.

Access is both the point and the constraint. The listing says direct access by car is not permitted; guests are collected and returned in Sils Maria, where parking is in an underground garage. With the hotel closed, provisions travel up with you. It is a stay for people who want the valley quiet rather than serviced.

The page shows no price and states that availability could not be confirmed; requests are forwarded to the provider. Agree the transfer times in advance and check which paths are open on your dates.

Price and November availability on request; transfer from Sils Maria to be arranged before arrival.

Read article

No. 05 · The edit

The Week Ahead

The Week Ahead

The week ahead: 30 October–5 November

AlpeanGlow

Arosa's first lift weekend, candle-dipping in Zuoz and a planning deadline in St. Moritz.

30 October–1 November: candle-dipping, Zuoz. Kerzenziehen at the Purtum civil-defence facility: Friday 13:00–18:45, Saturday and Sunday 10:00–18:45. It returns on 6–8 November.

31 October–1 November: Novemberhoch begins, Arosa. The Weisshorn cable car runs at weekends (Arosa–Mittelstation 09:00–16:20), the 360° Panoramarestaurant Weisshorn opens and Arosa Bärenland is open 10:00–16:00. The programme continues on weekends to 22 November; Hörnli skiing waits for snow.

From 2 November: off-season at Chesa Rosatsch, Celerina/Schlarigna. Off-season rates until 3 December, with the Uondas restaurant open at lunch and dinner.

Until 23 November: Talabfahrt consultation, St. Moritz. Written proposals and objections go to the Gemeindevorstand, Rathaus, Via Maistra 12. The documents are online and at the municipal offices.

Preview, 7 November: first cross-country trail, St. Moritz. Planned around Schanze and San Gian, using snow stored over the summer.

Seasonal boundary: Hotel Fex, Sils. Closed until 18 December.

Read article

No. 06 · The edit

Sources & Reading Notes

Sources & Reading Notes

Sources and reading notes

AlpeanGlow

Municipal notices, operator pages and the limits of this week's checks.

Research was checked on 30 October 2026. St. Moritz's cross-country notice, its consultation notice and the planning and consultation report support the St. Moritz reporting. The Engadiner Post's Roseg report and Südostschweiz's court report support the Pontresina lines; only their accessible openings were read, and no conclusion beyond them is drawn.

Arosa Kulm's site and Tageskarte's November 2024 report support the Arosa selection; Arosa Lenzerheide's Novemberhoch notice supports the Arosa calendar. The View's penthouse page, its about page, its overview and Laudinella's packages support the St. Moritz Bad selection.

Chesa Rosatsch's homepage and its al Flüm, a l'En and Sper l'En pages support the Celerina selection. Sils's Hotel Fex entry and the Chesa Meuli Fex listing support the Val Fex selection. Zuoz's agenda supports the calendar.

Accommodation descriptions are attributed to their operators or listing pages. No editor visit, live availability, measured broadband speed or direct operator confirmation is implied. Indexed marketplace results were discovery leads, not inventory feeds.

Cover: Theodor Esenwein / Unsplash, Lake St. Moritz in autumn, under the Unsplash License. An archive photograph, not a report of today's conditions. Listing photographs show their credited destination, not the selected property.

Read article